Laboratory for Woven Fabric R&D and Collection Design

Welcome to the Laboratory for Woven Fabric R&D and Collection Design, where we merge cutting-edge technology with creativity to shape the future of textile science and industry. Our expertise and equipment enable woven fabric design and development, as well as the entire technological process of creating small fabric samples, opening doors to innovations and collaborations on various projects.

CONTACT PERSON:

Assoc. Prof. Ivana Schwarz, Ph.D.
(Woven fabric design)
ivana.schwarz@ttf.unizg.hr

Assist. Prof. Snježana Brnada, Ph.D.
(Weaving technology and sample production)
snjezana.brnada@ttf.unizg.hr

LOCATION:

Department of Textile Design and Management

Main objectives and activities:

Research and Development:
In the Laboratory, we focus on researching highly functional innovative woven fabrics for various end use and developing woven fabric structures with targeted properties on conventional dobby weaving machines. This opens doors for collaboration with industrial partners and researchers on the development and production of woven fabrics with targeted structures and characteristics.

Student Education:
The Laboratory provides students with the opportunity to simulate the process of fabric design, fostering creativity and acquiring professional knowledge. Through practical experience in a laboratory environment, students develop their competencies and prepare for entering the job market.

Equipment and Technology:

Computer-Aided Woven Fabric Design System
Fabric design is carried out using the Arahne software, which, with its 3D visualization, allows the creation of woven fabrics with desired properties according to specific purposes. In today's world, the textile industry seeks innovative tools to enable precise woven fabric design and development to meet the growing market demands. Our service provides a solution that exceeds expectations, helping designers create fabrics with a high level of details and functionality. ArahWeave offers advanced capabilities of CAD fabric design, allowing precise control over every aspect of the woven fabric, from yarn to color. ArahPaint further extends design possibilities by allowing the development of custom patterns and images that can be integrated into the fabric. ArahDrape makes the fabric texturing process intuitive and efficient, providing realistic simulations that visualize the final product before production begins. The interactive editing capability allows us to quickly and easily change yarns, colors, controllers, and fabric density. CIElab-based colorimetry enables precise color matching on different screens and prints, ensuring color consistency throughout the production process. Real-size fabric simulation allows designers to get a clear idea of how the fabric will look in the real world, while the fabric cross-section view provides detailed insight into its structure and characteristics. We can offer a comprehensive solution for fabric design and development, achieving creative visions with ease and precision.

Laboratory Sample Weaving Machine (Fanyuan Instrument DW598) enables the weaving process with precisely defined parameters.
The weaving machine is a key part of the fabric production process, and our machine is integrated with a CAD/CAM system, allowing precise control of weaving and woven fabric design optimization. Easier and more precise weft insertion is achieved with a rigid repier insertion that ensures even distribution of the weft during weaving. Weft beat-up is controlled and precise, and the ability to adjust the beating force allows adaptation to specific weaving requirements. The pneumatic selvage forming system enables quick and efficient selvage formation during weaving, controlled via a computer interface for precision and consistency. The weaving machine allows weaving with different types of yarn in a fineness range from 5 to 500 tex, enabling adaptation to the needs and requirements of each scientific research project. The maximum warp width is 50 cm, and the maximum number of shafts is 18, enabling weaving of complex weaves. An electronic system with 8 weft selectors allows automatic and programmable weft selection. The machine is equipped with two warp beams with separate warp tension regulation, enabling the production of 3D fabrics, and warp density can be adjusted according to desired specifications with the possibility of combining up to four different warp densities simultaneously. The software allows detailed weave design and control of all parameters during weaving to achieve desired results. Along with the weaving machine, the laboratory is equipped with equipment for warp preparation. The laboratory sectional warping machine (Fanyuan Instrument DW 7140S) is essential for warp preparation processes. Its functionality allows winding multiple threads from cross-wound bobbins directly onto the warp beam, with maximum flexibility and control. With adjustable warping speed and a capacity of up to 24 threads per section, this machine enables fast and precise preparation of multicolored warps for weaving, with a maximum length of 18 meters. In case of a need for higher warp densities, we have developed an additional device for assembling, which allows the assembly of warps from multiple beams onto a single warp beam. The device can accept 8 warp beams, tension is regulated mechanically, and uniform density is regulated using an expanding reed.
With the above specifications, our weaving machine represents cutting-edge technology that enables precise and efficient weaving, providing opportunities for creating various designs and producing woven fabric samples suitable for fabric development and research.

Quality Control:

• Device for measuring warp tension (Schmidt Electronic Tension Meter, KXE-50K) ensures tension control.
• Dino-Lite microscope (AM7915MZT) performs surface analysis and structural parameters of the fabric.
• Fabric densitometer allows quick checking of fabric density.
• Thermal camera TESTO 872 measures the thermal properties of the fabric.